pet-bliss.ie

SWIM BLADDER PROBLEMS
Just a little blog to set things straight.
Goldfish are prone to swim bladder problems. True
Once a goldfish is infected does he die. No
Swim bladder diseases are curable No, only in exceptional cases
Heavy food works to correct this. Wrong! It just changes the fish’s equilibrium. Or ballast
What can I do? Virtually nothing, unless you get the disease in the first few weeks, after that the deformity is permanent.
How do I detect it? THEY swim or go UPSIDE DOWN.
How do I cure it? Pond goldfish treatment Interpet 2626 code
Apply as soon as you notice symptoms It IS A Disease and are internal.
How do I avoid it? Use Biosafe or a similar product it costs very little to prevent

Goldfish are hardy but not immune Bacteria attack from inside as well as outside.
Regards

Koi Bacteria Diseases

http://www.practical-water-gardens.com/pyjamas/article003.htm

Understand aeromonas, pseudomonas pathogenic bacteria in koi ponds By Tom Holder

I am extremely grateful to Tom Holder the master distributor world wide of the revolutionary product KoiZyme also known as Genesyz for permission to reproduce this article on aeromonas and pseudomonas pathogenic bacteria.

One of the most important things in keeping your pond and your fish healthy is understanding pathogenic bacteria. There are a wide variety of pathogenic bacteria that can infect your pond. By far the most common are Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. These two bacteria kill more koi each year than all the other pathogens combined. Understanding how these pathogens live, eat and attack your koi is vital to controlling them.

Aeromonas and Pseudomonas cause ulcers (also known as hole in the side disease), fin rot, mouth rot and tail rot. If left untreated the damage they inflict will eventually kill the fish. Many hobbyists believe that their ponds do not have either of these bacteria when their fish are not currently experiencing any of the above symptoms. This simply is not true. Aeromonas and/or Pseudomonas exist in almost every koi pond the world. You must understand that it is possible for koi to be around these bacteria and NOT be infected. Koi have a defense mechanism that helps protect them against these bacteria.This defense is made up of primarily their slime coat and their immune system. It is important not to have a false sense of security because all your fish appear healthy. This can change quickly. The big question is: How much Aeromonas and Pseudomonas can koi be exposed to without getting sick?

In 2000 when KoiZyme was first introduced to the koi hobby, many hobbyists and dealers conducted their own tests to verify KoiZyme did what it claimed. Most of these people were kind enough to share their test results, as well as information on the condition of their fish at the time of testing, with Koi Care Kennel.Conducting these tests were relatively simple. A sample of pond water prior to dosing with KoiZyme was sent to a lab to determine how much Aeromonas and Pseudomonas was present. The pond was then treated with the five initial treatments of KoiZyme. Once these treatments were completed, another pond water sample was sent to the lab for testing.A comparison of the before and after test results verified a significant reduction in Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. At Koi Care Kennel we reviewed test results from around the country and found some most interesting information. One pond that was tested had 22,000 C.F.U.s (Colony Forming Unit) of Aeromonas prior to dosing with KoiZyme. Most of the fish were experiencing various degrees of ulcers or fin rot.In this particular pond 22,000 C.F.U.s of Aeromonas were enough to cause problems in the majority of the fish. Another pond tested had 86,000 C.F.U.s of Aeromonas prior to dosing with KoiZyme.All the fish in this pond were healthy with no signs of ulcers of any kind. From this example, it can be seen that there is no set level of Aeromonas that will cause ulcers.Other factors can enter in to the picture here, such as the virility of different strains of bacteria, etc., however for the sake of simplicity, what is most important to remember from this discussion is that the overall health of the koi plays a huge role in how much pathogenic bacteria a fish can be exposed to and not get sick.

In an effort to help you manage Aeromonas and Pseudomonas in your pond, I have come up with some terminology that will hopefully help you to visualize the relationship between pathogenic bacteria and koi health. Let me emphasize that this is NOT some scientific theory based on mounds of research, but a simple explanation meant to help the hobbyist understand some basics.

If you had your pond tested for Aeromonas and Pseudomonas, you would get back from the lab a C.F.U. count telling you how much pathogenic bacteria was in your pond.Imagine this number as a RED LINE representing the pathogenic bacteria level in the pond posing a threat to the fish.As mentioned earlier, fish have a defense mechanism against pathogens. Each fish has its own individual tolerance level to the RED LINE based on the condition of its slime coat and the strength of its immune system. Now take a number of C.F.U.s that represents the highest level of pathogenic bacteria that an individual fish can be exposed to without getting sick. Imagine this number as a BLUE LINE.To have a totally healthy pond with no sick fish, each individual koi would have a BLUE LINE higher than the RED LINE of the pond. For example, if an individual koi had a BLUE LINE of 25,000 C.F.U.s (the highest level of pathogenic bacteria he could withstand without exhibiting symptoms) and the ponds RED LINE was 18,000 C.F.U.s, the fish would remain healthy and safe.On the other hand, if this individual kois BLUE LINE was 15,000 C.F.U.s, it would be sick because it could not tolerate the 18,000 C.F.U.s in the pond.

Let me give you a classic example of how this relationship works. This example may also help some koi dealers and hobbyists the next time a dealer is blamed for selling a sick fish. A hobbyist well call John has had his pond for some time and for the past three years all his fish have been healthy with no infections or problems.John decides it is time to finally go out and buy that special show quality koi he has always wanted. He visits his friendly koi dealer, looks around and sees nothing but healthy, beautiful fish. He feels confident in spending the money for the koi he has always wanted.He buys it, takes it home, and quarantines it for three weeks. Lets say he even treats it for parasites and flukes during the quarantine period. At last, he puts it in his pond and it gets sick with ulcers and fin rot. How many times have you heard John say it was the dealers fault. Johns collection has been healthy for the past three years. His pond is not the problem, just look at his healthy fish.

Lets take a look at what could have happened:
Johns pond had a RED LINE of 40,000 C.F.U.s.All his fish were healthy. They had BLUE LINES of lets say, 45,000 C.F.U.s.

Now, lets look at the dealers pond.He works hard to keep his ponds clean and healthy.When tested, that show tank had a RED LINE of 10,000 C.F.U.s. The fish John bought had a BLUE LINE of 20,000 C.F.U.s. It was healthy in that show tank when it was sold. But what happens when that fish with a BLUE LINE of 20,000 C.F.U.s is put in a pond with a RED LINE of 40,000 C.F.U.s? It gets sick because it cannot tolerate that level of bacteria.

Obviously, this scenario does not pertain to sick fish being bought and sold. But it is easy to see what can happen with the red line and blue line when moving fish from one pond to another without knowing what the RED LINE value is in each of the two ponds. Even if you did know the pathogenic bacteria levels in the two ponds, it how do you determine the BLUE LINE of the fish being moved. What can you do?

Fighting the battle on two fronts
Keeping your koi healthy and your pond healthy is a battle. And its a battle you want to fight on two fronts. On the first front you want to work on lowering the RED LINE in your pond. That is, you want the pathogenic bacteria level as low as possible. You do this by focusing on good mechanical filtration to remove the koi waste as quickly and as thoroughly as possible. Use KoiZyme to combat the proliferation of Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. At the same time you want to work on the second front, raising the BLUE LINES- the ability of the fish to tolerate pathogenic bacteria.This means raising the overall health of your fish, and strengthening their immune system.To accomplish this, water quality must be kept as high as possible. Check ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels keeping them within acceptable limits. Do periodic major water changes. Diet is very important to the overall health of the fish. They are what they eat. Feed a quality staple food, and vary their diet. Feed collard greens, kale, romaine lettuce, citrus fruit, watermelon, and defrosted frozen peas. Adding a paste food as a way to get extra vitamins and fatty acids in your kois diet is always a good idea. See our website for a paste food recipe that the fish love! (www.KoiZyme.com)

Another factor that can dramatically affect the relationship between the RED LINE and the BLUELINE is parasites. In fact, it throws the red line/blue line relationship right out the window. Parasites can bore through the protective slime coat of the fish allowing any existing opportunistic pathogenic bacteria to cause ulcers regardless of the BLUELINE . Even with an extremely low RED LINE in your pond,the moment parasites are introduced, secondary infections from the existing pathogenic bacteria no matter how few can occur. Keeping your pond parasite free is critical to maintaining healthy fish.

It is easy to assume that when ulcers develop, an Aeromonas problem exists. However, if the pond is well maintained and the fish are well cared for, parasites could very well be the problem.A microscope is needed to confirm the presence of parasites. If you dont yet have a microscope, you really ought to get one. It is a necessary tool in the koi hobby. Check with your local koi club to see if you can get a memberwith a microscope to help you take a scraping of your koi. If you dont have access to a microscope, then it may be a good idea to treat for parasites anyway. Use a safe and effective parasitic treatment such as PROFORM-C.This product can be used in water temperatures as low as 50 degrees (F).

Ultimately, the main goal is to get the RED LINE as low as possible and the BLUE LINE as high as possible. Good mechanical filtrationto remove koi waste and the use of KoiZymeis the most effective way to lower the RED LINE in your pond. Raising the BLUE LINE of the fish is achieved by giving attention to providinga healthy diet and insuring the best water quality possible. Keep in mind stress will lower the BLUE LINE of a koi quickly, and remember that as the seasons change and water temperatures fluctuate, the kois immune system is affected, thereby lowering the BLUE LINE of the fish as well. The bigger the margin between the RED LINE and the BLUE LINE the better the chances the fish have of staying healthy.

You can win the battle against pathogenic bacteria if you fight the battle on BOTHfronts .

http://www.practical-water-gardens.com/ben_koi_medications.htm

Koi Medications Koi Pond Treatment and Fish Health water disease used Koi MedicationsKoi Pond Treatment and Fish Health

Ever since Adam and Eve sinned in the Garden of Eden, man has been struggling with the problems of an imperfect world such as weeds, death and disease. This is very true for the koi keeper who over the years has been forced to experiment with different chemicals and compounds in the quest to find the ‘magic bullet’ that will successfully treat his koi.

Pond treatments are big business and it is evident how much as koi keepers we are cursed with disease when viewing the range of bottles, boxes and powders stocked by koi dealers to treat our koi.

Once opened, many of the different branded treatments look very similar as they share very similar formulations, tried and tested over time. Historically, there has been very little financial incentive for pharmaceutical companies to research new aquatic medications when confronted with extensive research costs and the limited market compared with the incentives for finding new drugs for the human medicine.

Some of the chemicals used in the hobby today have been introduced (and recently restricted) from fish farming and other disciplines, including human medicine. With several treatments under potential threat of withdrawal from our hobby, and the change in koi keepers’ opinions away from chemical treatments, alternative methods are starting to enter the market.

As science becomes progressively applied to koi keeping and in this age of information overload, more questions are being asked of what koi are subjected to when treated for disease. Are the treatments environmentally friendly? Are there alternatives? Why do we use them? How do they work? What are the side effects for our koi, filter and pond?

All medications are used for their toxic effects on the target disease organism, whether bacteria, fungi or parasites. Unfortunately, most medications are also toxic to koi as well as filter bacteria and aquatic plants.

The approach to chemotherapy in the pond environment is quite unique in the pet industry in that the water is usually treated instead of the animal. The chemical dose is determined by the volume of the pond rather than the size or number of koi. In this way, when using a long-term bath treatment it is necessary to know the precise volume of the pond rather than the size or weight of the diseased animals.

This has many obvious benefits in that the fish can be treated without being handled and potentially thousands of fish can be treated in a single action (a real benefit for the koi farmer). Yet, the cost of treating 20 koi in a pond compared with 20 koi in a bowl would unavoidably be more expensive; but as most pond treatments are inexpensive, this still does not prove to be a financial problem.

Larger specimen koi (and other large pond fish) suffering from certain bacterial conditions are sometimes better treated individually with antibiotic injections. In contrast, in this situation it is essential to know the size of the fish and the cost of the treatment is directly related to the weight of fish treated.

Chemotherapy (chemical treatment) immediately conjures up thoughts and images of cancer treatment and the appalling associated side effects such as loss of weight and hair. Such graphic side effects are due to the treatment also being toxic to the host. The key factor is treating with a dose that is sufficiently concentrated to kill the disease but not the host. The same is true in koi chemotherapy.

It is better not to treat at all rather than under-dose as under-dosing stresses the fish and does not eradicate the target pathogen, perhaps even enabling future generations of that disease to become more resistant to treatment. This is already the case with some bacteria that are resistant to antibiotics and some parasites being resistant to insecticides where the application of the medication has been inappropriate.

What do koi medications treat?
There are 4 categories of pathogen (disease-causing organisms): viruses, bacteria, fungi and parasites.

1. Very briefly, viruses cause diseases such as carp pox and are responsible for a number of notifiable diseases such as SVC in carp, and more recently KHV. Viral diseases cannot be treated because of their mode of action and this is why most of the notifiable diseases in the UK are viral. Once a fish has contracted the disease, it is untreatable and down to the fish’s own immune response to attack the virus. Notifiable disease is a disease listed by DEFRA/CEFAS whereby any occurrence of such a disease must be reported to DEFRA/CEFAS who control the movement of these fish and thus control the spread of the untreatable viral disease. Notifiable diseases are responsible for closing down fish farms as a result of the strict practices that infected sites have to carry out.)

Fish, just like humans, can be vaccinated against certain viral diseases where they are inoculated with a weakened form of the virus that stimulates the body to produce anti-bodies against that virus. In future infections by that virus the body is at an advantage in that it already possesses the antibodies to attack the virus. The fish is then immune to that virus. Although trialed in koi, fish vaccination is more common in fish farming and can be carried out using a dip or bath.

Bacteria are responsible for causing external complaints such as fin rot, gill rot, ulcers and ‘mouth fungus’ and are usually treated by dosing the water with a chemical treatment. Internal bacterial complaints which may cause haemorrhaging and possibly dropsy are better targeted using an injection of antibiotics. Antibiotics are only available under prescription from a vet and injections are only really suitable for larger fish. Vets can also prescribe antibiotic food.
Fungus is responsible for the cotton wool-like growths found on wounds or abrasions. Fungus is often quite difficult to treat, especially in advanced cases, as the protruding fungus growth is the tip of the iceberg in that out of sight, the fungus is penetrating deep into the living fish tissue. Unlike the other categories of disease, fungus is not contagious and affected koi will not infect healthy and intact koi.
Parasites can attack the exterior and interior of fish and range in size from being microscopic (Chilodinella, Trichodina) to those visible by the naked eye (Fish Louse, Anchor Worm, White Spot) up to those several centimetres long such as leeches and tapeworms.
Parasites on wild fish remain in a finely balanced relationship where their level of infection does not cause the death of the host. It is in the parasite’s interests to keep its host alive. In captivity in a koi pond, however, koi and parasite relationships can become unbalanced causing the death of the host. Treatments for parasites vary according to the location of the parasite (internally/externally), the size of the parasite and its lifecycle.

What treatments are used?
It is no coincidence that many proprietary pond medications are very similar in colour and appearance. Most of them follow very similar formulae with differences occurring in the refinement of chemicals used, chemical concentrations and minor adjustments to the base formula.

Other chemicals are used on their own and for toxic implications cannot be mixed with other active ingredients.

Commonly used chemicals include malachite green, formalin, acriflavine, potassium permanganate, methylene blue, antibiotics and salt. A koi keeper at one time or other will have used at least one of the above to treat their koi so it is pertinent to know what effect these chemicals have on the disease, fish and the pond environment.

How do medications work?
Malachite Green
Malachite is a strong dark green dye that has even been used as an antiseptic in wounds in humans. Different grades are available but the less toxic zinc-free malachite green is used in ponds to treat fungus and microscopic external parasites such as Chilodinella, Costia and White Spot.

Due to its broad action, malachite is often the foundation to many pond medications. Malachite is toxic to humans as well as fish and is a cancer-causing substance. Care must be taken when using it especially if in powder form as it is extremely concentrated in this form. Fish unavoidably absorb malachite through their gills and being a cumulative toxin it is stored in fish flesh. Its use in trout farming has recently been restricted as there is evidence that fish reaching the market contain traces of malachite green.

A replacement for malachite that is less risky to humans is being researched but as malachite is so effective and readily available, the financial incentive to research and develop an alternative is very small when considering the small size of the pond market. Such a change will only occur through legislation banning the use of malachite in certain circumstances.

Malachite permeates through cell membranes of parasites and fungi where it interferes with respiratory and metabolic processes within the cells. Consequently, treated pathogens are unable to generate energy within their cells, eventually dying.

If koi are overdosed with malachite their cells suffer the same effects on a massive scale potentially killing the koi. There is no antidote for malachite over dose.

Formalin
Formalin is a solution of approximately 40% formaldehyde gas. It is a clear, colourless, pungent and highly toxic solution. Regularly used with malachite green (Leteux-Meyer mixture) as the effect of the 2 combined chemicals is greater than the sum of each if used individually. It is very effective against microscopic external parasites such as white spot, Chilodinella and Trichodina.

Formalin is a universal disinfectant and works by damaging the structure of proteins that form the structure of cells and the genetic information within the cells themselves. Technically described as a protein precipitator, formalin denatures proteins unselectively which unfortunately will also include koi tissue, so the correct dosing is critical.

Acriflavine
The antiseptic nature of acriflavine is known from its uses in human medicine as a treatment for mouth and throat infections and for disinfecting wounds.

It is a deep yellow powder that dissolves easily in water and can be used to treat bacteria, fungi and particular parasitic infections.

It is absorbed through cell membranes where it reacts with DNA inside the cells. This disrupts the pathogen’s ability to reproduce causing an accelerated death and preventing the spread of the infestation. It is still not clear why acriflavine has this effect on DNA within cells.

Potassium Permanganate
This is a dark purple crystal effective against bacteria and external parasitic infections and is routinely the treatment for dipping newly-harvested or imported koi. It is a very toxic chemical that can quite easily kill fish if even slightly over dosed. Its mode of action can be seen by the naked eye in that it forms manganese dioxide giving surfaces a brown colouration. This forms a manganese-protein complex in contact with proteins (fish skin, mucus, parasites, bacteria) which interferes with the protein synthesis of the organism, causing death.

Its effect is greatly reduced by a high organic content in the water as the potassium permanganate reacts with the organic molecules in the water rather than the target organisms.

In the Second World War and during rations, when tights and stockings were in very short supply, to remain fashionable, ladies regularly took Potassium Permanganate baths to turn their legs brown! This is not to be recommended.

Methylene Blue
Methylene blue comes as a very dark green powder, appearing blue when dissolved in water. Once very fashionable, methylene blue is now considered a ‘traditional’ medication for bacterial, fungal and parasitic infections. It is now used less frequently as it is highly toxic to plants and will wipe out the bacteria in a biofilter (See Table 1). It is easily absorbed through cell membranes and affects cell activity by raising oxygen consumption within cells. Its mode of action is unclear but it is thought that its action is similar to that of other dyes.

Antibiotics
Antibiotics (literally means ‘against life’) are naturally occurring chemicals produced by fungi or bacteria that have an antibacterial effect. Antibiotics are now manufactured and produced synthetically but have the same effect.

The use of antibiotics in the UK is controlled by prescription to limit their use to treating worthy cases rather than allow their widespread use to prevent disease that would increase bacterial resistance. This has already been seen with antibiotics such as oxolinic acid and oxytetracycline which are now useless against many bacteria. This has been one of the major issues in recent years when treating ulcers in imported pondfish where the ulcer does not respond to antibiotic treatment due to bacterial resistance.

Antibiotics can be added to water in short term baths and dips, fed orally in medicated food or given via injection. They must not be added to a tank or pond as they will wipe out any biofiltration (See Table 1).

Their mode of action is varied and ranges from the interference of cell membrane formation in developing bacteria to the inhibition of genetic apparatus within microbes, preventing cell division and the multiplication of bacteria. As bacterial infections spread rapidly it is vital to stop the bacteria from dividing and multiplying and antibiotics achieve just that, unless the bacteria are resistant to that antibiotic.

Salt
Salt (sodium chloride) can have several therapeutic effects on koi and is used quite regularly by some koi keepers as a preventative as well as a treatment.

It has effective antiseptic properties and can be used as a tonic in mild concentrations to stimulate the koi’s metabolism. It can also be added to ponds to reduce nitrite toxicity. Used as a dip or a long-term bath, salt can also be used as a treatment against external parasites such as Trichodina, Argulus and Lernaea.

In stronger concentrations, salt is believed to have a 3-fold effect on parasites.

Acts as a skin irritant increasing mucus production, throwing off skin parasites.
The high sodium ion concentration is toxic to external parasites.
The osmotic change will call parasites to implode.
If treating ulcerated fish, the addition of salt to the water also reduces the influx of water into koi, taking pressure off its kidney functions. It is important to remember that salt will remain in a pond system until it is removed with a water change.

As it can be seen, the mode of action of many koi medications is at the cellular level, attacking cell membranes or activities within the cell. Medications are not usually selective in their action but quite crude, with koi surviving by virtue of their size and complexity in relation to the smaller, susceptible pathogen. Consequently, pathogens of just 1 or a few cells in size are easier to treat (and kill) than the more complex and larger parasites.

Medications are nearly always toxic to koi and humans and administered on the basis that at the recommended dose rates, they are more toxic to the pathogen that the koi. This is why medications should never be overdosed.

It is essential to acknowledge that while most disease problems are the result of a water quality problem, pond medications will not solve a water quality problem but only treat the disease. Therefore always try to identify and solve the cause of the problem before treating it.

Essential Facts for Treating Koi
Only treat your koi once you have made a definite diagnosis.
Pond treatments will kill pathogenic organisms, but only your koi are able to heal themselves. They will only be able to recover from disease if the water quality is ideal.
Pond treatments cannot be used as a substitute for a quality pond environment. When treating for disease, carry out any corrective husbandry as a priority, otherwise the koi will continue to suffer from stress and ill health.
Always aerate your pond vigorously when treating, as pond treatments have a negative impact on dissolved oxygen.
Know the volume of your pond and filter system (in gallons or litres)
Volume in gallons: Calculate the volume in cubic feet and multiply answer by 6.25 Volume in litres: Calculate the volume in cubic feet and multiply answer by 28.375
Never leave a both or bowl of treated koi unattended. By definition, bath/bowl treatments involve high doses that can cause fish to deteriorate rapidly.
Always complete a course of treatment, especially when treating against external parasites.
Please also check out this UK Pond Doctor site

Ozoe the wheres why & other uses in the koi pond
http://www.koicarp.org.uk/koi_water_garden_ozoneuses.htm

The pond. Ph and its effects on our gorgeous fish.

Over the last decade I have investigated the Koi keepers nightmares, the water quality of Irish water & its effect on my prize Koi. Having fallen into the trap of Ulcer disease I have successfully eradicated it from my pond. This will probably be the greatest achievement in my life as I fell upon the solution quite stupidly.

Having lived in Ireland for the latter years of my life I extended my hobby from England to here in quite a substantial manner. I now sell Koi to people and help them maintain their ponds when required to do so. I have used my forty years of fish keeping helping others to help themselves in their environment and I still maintain my love of the subject without adding the sales technique that I have acquired as well.
I maintain being a good Koi keeper is deriving the information from books writings of better men than me and combining them with the knowledge I have gained over the period to become somewhat of an expert on the matter.

Now water quality has been one of my first defences in the keeping or ornamental Koi You can regularly see me first thing in the morning & last thing at night out with the test kits & ensuring that any deviance from the normal is taken care of. Having read that the prime killers in fish are ammonia & nitrite, steps have always been taken to neutralize them from the water if they occurred. Mostly they have never appeared unless an almost complete water change was done which killed off the filter and a complete re-cycling had to take place.
At the beginning of the year three and a half years ago I noticed a Koi, which had a bit of mouth rot, part of his mouth was eaten away. So I caught him & swabbed him & put it under the microscope and noticed that flexibacter & saprogenia were both present in the infection. I chose a standard pond treatment to eradicate the problem and it seemed to work quite well. About six weeks later a dead Koi popped up to the surface and about its body were ulcers and they affected the fish underneath so even if I had seen him before I couldn’t tell that they were ill. So in my panic I bought in the big guns with an antibacterial treatment from interpet. Again the disease went into remission & I had no more problems for about three months until one after the other I started getting ulcers that you could see & fish that inevitably were dying. After another two treatments with antibacterial products from other suppliers I sat down & almost admitted defeat. Forty years of knowledge went absolutely nowhere in finding a solution to the problem.
I decided that a complete water change was the answer & couldn’t do any more harm as they were all dying anyway. So I changed the water and introduced salt as a buffer to compensate for peaks in the ammonia and nitrate cycle. I researched the salt & found that a 6% dip was the answer to the ulcers spreading further plus a 3% solution in the complete pond. This held the disease in check and it was very traumatic catching the fish bagging & dipping them every two or three days but eventually I decided that this was not getting me any further with the solution.

I paid a visit to my father back in England & all the Koi I had left with him when I moved here were alive & well and had not experienced any problems whatsoever
So I decided that if the water quality over there was different to here I could help to solve the problem. Dutifully I filled two lemonade bottles from the water took them back with me for testing.

The results were almost identical except that the pH was different by 0.3% mine was 8.5 and his was 8.2. I both cases nitrate was non-existent as I had always maintained an eco system was best in any pond and both were well planted with the effect of zero nitrate.

Well I then turned back to my research notes from when I started the pond and I noticed that in all the records that I kept had only a slight variation in pH when cycling the filters at the beginning of each year and for some reason the pH had risen afterwards by the 0.3% So I tested the pH four times a day & noted all the temperatures as well. I decided to investigate the pH syndrome to see if that had any answers. I discovered the following information from a website relating to carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/carbonate buffering system (a hold down for pH variation)

I introduced calcium carbonate into the pond gradually over a period of three weeks and together with the salt baths the ulcerations cleared up and the fish gradually recovered and re-grew skin where the ulcers were.

I had succeeded to eradicate the problem from the pond, but now, when testing I also
Test for salt solution & water hardness in the form of calcium carbonate per mg/litre & maintain this as one of my routine chores.

In conclusion I established that the Irish water runs off from granite rocks & very little calcium carbonate is present. Where as the English water in Sussex runs from chalk rocks with lots of calcium carbonate naturally present in it. This has the effect or reducing pH in the early to late afternoon sun the technical way of putting it is that
The carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate & hydrogen ions The hydrogen ions produced the acidic forming ions & counteract the high pH and if pH begins to fall then the process is reversed, much the same as in a kettle or a washing machine and a product called Calgon works on the same lines by dissolving the calcium & diluting it back into the water.
I also found out that a block of plaster of Paris about a pound for every 1000gallons has a similar buffering effect on the water, whereas I thought that plaster had an adverse effect on the water quality & up until then had used a peat to bring down pH.

Just goes to show that no matter how long you are in this game you never stop learning the story, so that’s why I am telling you the tale, you never know it may be the answer to your problems too.
www.fishkeepingsupplies.com

This is organic aquariums.
Designed for the less enthusiastic fish keeper to ensure that his tank is the best-kept tank in the business.
No hassle testing
No hassle fish health
In fact no hassle fish keeping

Organic aquarium treatment is made up from 3 different treatments
_____________________________________________________

Here is a short explanation of the product.

The 3 products work together as a bio-filter, by good balanced micro-life being activated and contained to balance and control healthy water quality in a closed system.

B-Bac
_____

Why is it relevant ? Fanatics at the trade have long professed there is only one-way to do the job. That’s by the age-old tank cycling system (of course this age old cycling method has always had problems with new water syndrome). In Short. Get fish to make ammonia(natural occurring waste from fish & all other animals), grow nitrasamonas(ammonia eating bacteria, nitrifying bacteria) and turn ammonia into nitrite. Then grow Nitrobacters(nitrite eating bacteria, de-nitrifying bacteria) & turn that into nitrate. Then remove the nitrate buildup by changing water for low nitrate level water. Thereby keeping water almost perfect, free of ammonia & nitrite

Hopefully this product will level out the peaks & troughs involved in this cycle that are responsible for fish wipeouts due to ammonia & nitrite poisoning on the peaks.

New tank syndrome. What is it? It is the peaks & troughs in ammonia & nitrite densities that cause fish loss & wipeouts

What does b-bac do to help this? Promotes rapid growth of beneficial bacteria in a very little space of time, by activating dormant bacteria in the product, immediately combating the ammonia waste from fish. It’s like an ammonia filter. Contains dormant nitrosomonas that combat the high ammonia levels associated with fish loss

De- activates chlorine & other harmful chemicals in tap water almost immediately, by combating chloramines & releasing them into the atmosphere from the tank water. Takes harmful elements from the water & disperses them via gasses to the atmosphere

releases natural oils into the water to coat fish, enhancing a natural protection to combat naturally occurring pathogens(bad bacteria that causes fish diseases)in the water.

Thereby combating “New water syndrome” ( the fact that even new water can contain harmful as well as beneficial bacteria)

General treatment.
_______________

Contains nitro-bacters including nitrosomonas to reduce peaks in the nitrogen cycle, by bacterial dissolution of waste fish products & evening out the peaks & troughs in the Nitrite cycle, thereby helping natural bacteria levels to grow at a constant, maintaining a more streamlined cycle.

Contains a natural additive to release toxic waste from the water via natural dissolution of gasses out of the water & replacing them with oxygen gasses generated by the nitrification process , more suited to beneficial aspects of the fish keeping cycle.

Acts against fungus, by starving bad bacteria of their food ( no food, bacteria starve to death & cant live)
In the same way controls algae growth, by denying chlorophylls the right to naturally occurring food such as dead nitrosomonas & dead nitrobacters.

By removing & processing dead bacteria, leaves no residue in the water to cause cloudy water.

Health treatment.

Mixture of minerals and plant materials. H.T. is active against dangerous protozoa types and against different fish pathogens. Cleanse wounds and prevents infections. Causes a mucous layer to cover the wound while it heals. Positively active on the skin membrane enhancing health and coloration.

Forms a wall of mucus on the fish to repel bacterial diseases & therefore adds to the fish health by prevention & not cure.

Why you should use this product.

Every fish keeper will understand losing a fish, mostly through no fault of his or her own. Now Most of know that’s “not true”.
If we had done this or that then “it” would not have occurred.
Most fish salesmen are very happy that fish losses are heavy as they sell more fish.

This product is designed to help to more unfortunate of us that make mistakes, by eliminating them.

It is not a substitute for tank cycling unless used on a daily basis & that’s not what most of us want to do.
We want less maintenance, less time spent trying to answer complicated problems & more time enjoying the watching syndrome that
enthralls us all.

Does not eliminate completely the need for vast surface areas to grow beneficial bacteria(filters or aggregate beds), more adds to the natural cycle to speed up the process

Add this product on a weekly basis (2 minutes a week) chucking the right amount of this stuff to suit our tanks.
This will ensure that whatever you do wrong reduces fish loss to the absolute minimum.

Whether you use this product or a similar product it is packed in handy quantities & eliminates overdosing or under dosing each month by using a new pack.

Startup pack.
This carries larger doses of ammonia decreasing bacteria & therefore must only be used the first 28 days.

Maintenance pack.
This carries the correct doses of continually needed bacteria.& thus maintains a continually healthy bacterial balance in the water & should be used on a continuing basis.

As always there is a cost.
Small to medium tank 4-6 euro per week.

medium to large 6-8 euro per week

larger 10 euro per week.

When you don’t have time to do the natural cycling (1 hour or more per week) then it’s a small price to pay for keeping your fish healthy

Contact info@pet-bliss.com for more details

Related Topics
Freshwater AquariumsChemistryCatsExotic PetsWeb Clip Art
Seven Cardinal Sins of Saltwater Aquaria Keeping
From Stan & Debbie Hauter,Your Guide to Saltwater Aquariums.
Common Mistakes Made by Saltwater Aquarists
Having been your About Guides to Saltwater Aquariums since 1997, from all the email we have received and the bulletin board postings we’ve read and replied to over the years, we have noticed that most people’s saltwater aquarium keeping problems seem to stem from making the same common mistakes.
By being aware of the mistakes that are most often made by other aquarists, they can be avoided. Therefore, here is our list of what we consider to be the Seven Cardinal Sins of Saltwater Aquaria Keeping.
Moving Too Fast - “Patience” is a requirement with just about anything that you do with a saltwater aquarium. Far too many people report problems after they have put a tank together, because they are just moving too fast! Far too often we have read aquarists comments like, “I need test kits? What for and what kind”? And, this is after they have had a tank for some time.
zSB(3,3);if(!z336){var zIsb=gEI(”adsb”);if(zIsb){zIsb.style.display=”inline”;zIsb.style.height=”0px”;zIsb.style.width=”0px”;}var zIss=gEI(”adss”);if(zIss){zIss.style.display=”inline”;zIss.style.height=”0px”;zIss.style.width=”0px”;}}

A high percentage of people do not take the time to read and study up on the hobby BEFORE getting started. One of the other top mistakes of moving too fast is “overloading” a tank with too much livestock and/or live rock all at once, especially when a tank has not fully cycled, or doing so within days of cycle completion. Even in well a established tank, adding too many critters too fast can cause a puzzling problem called new tank syndrome. Slow down!! Saltwater aquaria keeping is NOT a timed event, so take it easy and work on your patience skills!
Misdiagnosing Diseases & Over Medicating - When it comes to diagnosing diseases, saltwater ich is the biggest problem. It is easy to confuse Oodinium (Amyloodinium ocellatum - a.k.a. Marine Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) with White Spot Disease (Cryptocaryon irritans). They are similar, but two quite different types of saltwater ich, and each responds to different types of treatment. Using the wrong medication to treat these diseases can be fatal. It is important to learn how to properly diagnose and treat these parasites, as well as other diseases. The Fish Disease Trouble Shooter can help you make the right diagnosis. As far as using medications, way too often one or more remedies are just thrown at a problem without knowing what it is. We feel that medications should only be used when necessary, and whenever possible, only in a Quarantine Tank using a remedy that “targets” the problem you actually have.
Inadequate Filtration - Having sufficient biological filtration is the one of the keys to success in keeping a saltwater aquarium. There are a number of filtration methods to choose from, but not making the right filter selection for the bio-load planned for your tank can lead to a wide variety of problems. It is always better to have too much biological filtration, rather than too little.
Livestock Incompatibility - We receive email messages with statements such as “my wrasse ate my hermit crab”, or “my tangs just won’t get along” all too frequently. Purchasing livestock without researching whether or not they will peacefully reside with other tank mates can lead to dead or injured critters, as well as stress related diseases. Use common sense; learn about the compatibility of critters before putting them together!
Purchasing Livestock Without Knowing What They Are and How To Care For Them - It is amazing how many people select new additions for their tank without even knowing what they are and how to feed them. If an LFS sales person can’t tell you about an animal in their store, especially its dietary requirements, as well as demonstrate that it is eating before you buy it, then run, don’t walk to the nearest exit. Don’t buy on impulse. Take the time to learn about an animal you want to buy, BEFORE doing so! The Fish Care by Species Index was designed to make this job a lot easier.
Purchasing Fish in Poor Health - One of the easiest things to do when selecting a critter is to determine whether or not it is healthy. In a simple phrase: most sick fish don’t eat. Once again, always have your LFS sales person show you that a fish is eating before purchasing it. On your part, learn how to recognize the symptoms or outward signs of common illnesses so you know what to look for when inspecting livestock to buy.
Lack of Performing Routine Tank Maintenance Tasks - Well maintained tanks seldom experience high nitrate levels, bacterial outbreaks, or other common tank problems. Therefore, to avoid the common pitfalls that may stem from this area, we strongly advise following a regular maintenance routine.
Of course there are many other areas where aquarists make mistakes, but we feel that this list pretty much covers a majority of the most common ones made. By taking advice from those that have been there, you’ll save yourself a lot of headaches and frustration in the long run.
if(z336>0){var zIiB=gEI(”iB”);var zIiS=gEI(”iS”);if(zIiB&&zIiS){zIiB.className=”imgN”;zIiS.className=”imgS”;}}if(zp[2].d){w(xb);Dsp(zp[2],’ip’,8);}if((z160>0)&&(zp[0].m&8)&&zIfw
Suggested Reading
Buying Fish - What to Look For Aquarium Maintenance CareFish & Invert Species Profiles
Suggested Reading
FREE Email Class - SW Aquariums 101Setting Up an Aquarium in 10 Easy StepsDIY Aquarium Projects

if(zp[8].d){w(xb);Dsp(zp[8],’ip’)}if(zp[9].d){w(xb+xb);Dsp(zp[9],’ip’)}
Most Popular
The Most Common Mistakes Sand Stirrers For Your DSB Deep Sand Bed Reef Tank - Saltwat…10 Easy Aquarium Set Up StepsSaltwater Aquariums 101 - Getting StartedTop 1-50 Gallon Aquarium Picks
What’s Hot
Guides Saltwater Fish Pick Profile - About the Dragon Wrasse…Aiptasia Anemone Infested Zoanthid Stone Images - Comparison…Eheim 3581 Feed-Air Digital…Klein’s Butterflyfish ProfileTop Fluorescent Bulb Picks